KASHMIR VALLEY EXPEDITION 2015 - SARWALI PEAK (TOSHE RI I) 6,326m / 20,755ft.
Updated: Oct 13

The Highest Virgin Peak of Kashmir, Neelum Valley, Azad Jammu & Kashmir
On this peak, three of Pakistan's finest mountaineers went missing:
Imran Junaidi, Usman Tariq, and Khurrum Rajput
On the Highest Virgin Peak - Sarwali 6326m (Also known as Toshe Ri I)
EXPEDITION DETAILS
A five-member Kashmir Valley Expedition 2015 comprising Imran Junaidi, Usman Tariq, Khurrum Rajput, Awais Khattak, and Ali Tariq left Islamabad on 22nd August 2015 to conquer Sarwali Peak (Toshe Ri I) 6326m - the highest and still virgin peak of Kashmir, situated in Neelum Valley, AJK.
The main climbing party comprising Imran Junaidi, Usman Tariq, and Khurrum Rajput established Camp 2 at 5,000 meters on 30th August 2015.
The last contact with this party was made on 31st August 2015 at night from Base Camp to Camp 2 via wireless phone, as there is no other contact system in the area.
This information was disclosed by the Base Camp Manager, Mr. Awais Khattak, who came down to Kel Village to seek police and local help. The information was revealed to Col. Jabbar Bhatti and others on the evening of 4th September 2015, and to Mr. Saad Tariq Siddiqi on 7th September 2015, who took immediate action to arrange a search and rescue mission in consultation with:
Alpine Club of Pakistan, Alpine Club of Kashmir, Ibex Club, Outdoor Adventures (OA), Adventure Academy, and Col. Jabbar Bhatti with his team including Hassan Sadpara.
SEARCH OPERATION / RESCUE MISSIONS
1st Search Operation - 07th Sept 2015
Started from Kel by Col. Jabbar Bhatti via Helicopter.
2nd Search Operation - 08th Sept 2015
Started from Domail by locals Mr. Khursheed and Chacha Hussain on ground.
3rd Search Operation - 10th Sept 2015
Started from Kel by a combined team. Team 1 comprising Mirza Sadique and Jamshed left Islamabad at 9 AM on 08th Sept 2015. Team 2 (Volunteers) comprising Saad Tariq Siddiqi, Muzaffar Faizi, Mehboob Chaudhry, Ijaz Chaudhry, and Dr. Naveed left Islamabad around 8 PM on 8th Sept 2015. Both rescue teams met at Kel Tourist Hotel on the night of 09th Sept 2015 and planned to start the search & rescue mission immediately under the guidance of Mr. Saad Tariq Siddiqi with the help of local guide Chacha Khursheed early in the morning.
4th Search Operation - 12th Sept 2015
Started from Base Camp by Col. Jabbar Bhatti and team including Hassan Sadpara, Mohammad Tahir and others.
All operations remained unsuccessful due to fresh snowfall, a large number of crevasses, and the most important factor - delay by the base camp team in informing authorities for rescue.
DAWN NEWS REPORT - 17th September 2015
Professional rock climbers Imran Junaidi, Usman Tariq and Khurrum Rajput were attempting to climb the 6,326 metre high peak.
The group left Islamabad on August 22 to attempt to summit the peak, according to sponsors of the expedition. On August 26 the three-member expedition headed up from the base camp.
"From August 26 to the night of August 31, the climbers were in contact with the base camp. From the advance camp, the climbers reported going behind the mountain and out of sight, and would lose contact. They had also informed that they would return to the base camp on September 4," said Ehsan Khattak from the Ibex Club, which sponsored the group by providing safety equipment.
According to Khattak, the base camp reported on September 4 that the climbers had not returned. A search operation was launched on September 7.
"There is nothing conclusive. There has been no evidence so far that the climbers met an accident," Khattak said, explaining that the communication system in the area is poor.
The climbers were communicating initially through walkie-talkies. The satellite phone communication in the area wasn't good either.
Alpine Club of Pakistan (ACP) Press Secretary Karrar Haidri said that the Sarwali peak is a challenging mountain that has so far only seen failed attempts and remains unconquered.
"The conditions on the mountain are tough. There has been fresh snow for the last two days, and the crevasses are now buried under it, making the search for the three climbers difficult," Haidri said.
He explained that the ACP is supporting the Ibex Club in the search operation. Some of the best climbers and high altitude porters, including Hassan Sadpara and Saddiq Satpara, who are trained in rescue techniques, were involved in the search operation.
Published in Dawn, September 17th, 2015
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There will be no physical presence, but memories will always remain.
May Their Souls Rest In Peace.
Imran Junaidi | Usman Tariq | Khurrum Rajput Heroes of Pakistani Mountaineering - Lost on Sarwali Peak, Neelum Valley, AJK - August 2015

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